Regular readers of this blog may remember the zero waste coat that looked like a Jedi costume. It was adapted from the tessellated coat + dress from Zero Waste Sewing. Here’s the coat from the book:

It was one of those garments which I was very happy with and thought I’d nailed every aspect: pattern, fabric, fit, sewing etc. However, I wore the coat several times during Me-Made-May and decided that the sleeves were too short for a winter coat.

I noticed it first when I was driving and my arms were bent to hold the steering wheel (yep, it’s the kind of car where one needs to wear a coat to drive in winter). Sure was breezy around the wrists! Then I wore a different coat with a better length sleeve, leaving me dissatisfied with the ones on the Jedi coat.

This is the coat (Burda pattern) that cemented the sleeve dissatisfaction.

The problem lies with the cut of the body/sleeves. The sleeves are cut as an extension of the body, which works well if one walks around with one’s arms out horizontally.

However, when the arms are in a more natural position, the top of the sleeve is too short while the part next to the thumb is okay. If the sleeve is already a bit too short, it’s now even shorter.

See how the wrist of the coat is angled?

zero waste jedi coat revisited coat sleeves with arrow

It sounds obvious now I’m writing it, but funnily I have other clothes with similar long sleeves (for example the Tuta) and haven’t noticed it.

And, I should say I don’t actually mind the “sleeve kicking out” shape – it looks cute on short sleeves and I quite like it on actual Jedi costumes too!

The solution: I unpicked the coat’s cuffs and put new ones on 4cm longer. Then I put a dart in the front of the elbow, shaped like a vertical eye.

zero waste jedi coat revisited dart pinned in

Here it is on me. The sleeve on the left has the dart, which I’ve left pinned. It sits a lot straighter around the wrist now, and the length is far better!

zero waste jedi coat revisited new sleeves
zero waste jedi coat revisited

Zero waste has kind of gone out the window, but while zero waste is a worthy goal, it shouldn’t be at the expense of fit and appearance.

I liked this coat before, but now it’s just right!

Cheers!

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