Patternmaking
What happens after size 16? A discussion on plus-size grading.
Much talk has taken place in the sewing world on plus sizes, inclusivity and diversity, both in size ranges offered and models photographed. I was very conscious of this while doing my new book, Zero Waste Sewing, and this blog post by Song of the Sewing Machine reminded me again how frustrating is it to…
Read MoreThe unexpected conclusion to the hug-me-tight experiment
Last week’s hug-me-tight experiment has taken an unexpected turn. You can read about the adventure so far here. This is the cutting concept I started with: I felt that the maroon double knit hug-me-tight that I was experimenting with was too short (it finished at my waist), although the sleeves were good and the collar…
Read MoreThe hug-me-tight experiment
Folks, I’m not sure what to call this garment I’ve been experimenting with this week. I’ve seen it called a hug-me-tight but does it have another name? Some sort of shrug? The cutting concept is very simple and can easily be zero waste: John Galliano did a very glamorous brocade hug-me-tight for Dior spring/summer 1998.…
Read MoreHow to do a Small Bust Adjustment (SBA), my way
Hi Folks, I’m writing today as an SBA veteran. As an owner/occupier of an Small Bust, I have a certain authority and years of experience on the subject. As you may (or may not) know, it doesn’t matter if you have a small bust, a large one, you’re tall, short, have big thighs, skinny calves,…
Read MoreThe experimental shorts: the crushing verdict
In the world of patternmaking, I like to persist with things and Get It Right. It’s not often I give up easily on a project. Last week I experimented with a short/trousers draft, which I found in one of my old sketchbooks. Unfortunately I hadn’t dated it or noted the source, but I might have…
Read MoreExperimental shorts
Last week’s Built by Wendy, Sewn by Lizzy dress is progressing…slowly. Meanwhile, I came across an interesting idea for cutting trousers (or shorts) and thought I’d give it a whirl. Here’s the concept: It’s closely related to these zero waste pajama pants, except that the triangular/diamond gusset is cut from the tummy rather than…
Read MoreOn going digital
Can you teach an old dog new tricks? I wondered that two years ago when I decided to learn computerized patternmaking. In 1990-91 when I did my patternmaking training, patternmaking software was rare and expensive (it’s still expensive). I learnt to make patterns Old School, and since I never worked anywhere that used computers, I…
Read MoreThe challenge of zero-waste leggings
Is it possible to design leggings that waste no fabric? I have been turning this idea over in my head for some time; I do love a patternmaking challenge. Read more about zero waste fashion here. Basic leggings typically only have one pattern piece, which makes zero waste impossible since the piece isn’t square. The…
Read MoreI wanna be a cowl girl
Last week’s festive season batik cowl neck dress has been an absolute winner! I’ve worn it twice already. Did you like the cowl neck? It’s a shallow cowl, the sort where you don’t have to press your hand to your chest when bending over to avoid displaying everything. It’s an easy bit of patternmaking if…
Read MoreLutterloh from the op shop
Arriving home from an op shop visit, my husband presented me with someone’s Lutterloh books. Lutterloh is a pattern making system from Germany. It was developed in 1935 and is still available today. Lutterloh is a pattern drafting system only. There are no instructions for cutting or making the…
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