New Pattern: Xanthea Zero Waste T-shirt

Hi Everyone, I have a new pattern: introducing Xanthea, a zero waste t-shirt.

It’s in my Etsy shop now; please enjoy 25% off for the next month.

The Xanthea t-shirt comes in nineteen sizes, to fit a 86cm/34″ bust to a 177cm/70″. The fit is loose and slightly boxy.

Xanthea zero waste t-shirt front and back sketch

It’s designed for knit fabrics such as t-shirt knit, jersey and French terry. Knit fabric versions feature a zip in-seam pocket.

The pattern can also be made in wovens such as linen, tencel, viscose, lawn, chambray and boiled wool.

Included is a long sleeve option which isn’t zero waste; it’s low waste and designed to leave you with useable rectangular offcuts.

Xanthea zero waste long sleeved t-shirt

Xanthea has an unusual construction. The body hangs on the bias with an X-shaped seam across the front. The pattern comes with a little paper model to cut out and tape together to understand how the pattern is constructed:

Xanthea paper model
The paper model is too big for Barbie but it might fit Ken 🙂

I think I might have two world “firsts” with Xanthea. I believe this is the first modern zero waste sewing pattern to go up to a 177cm/70″ bust and the first to feature a plus-size model in the primary image.

Here’s a gallery of Xanthea tops:

Xanthea top in linen
It’s lovely in linen. This is washed linen and it hangs and drapes beautifully.
Xanthea t-shirt in animal print
In a funky animal print mash-up knit.
Xanthea in peach recycled poly/cot
Here’s a long sleeved version in peach cotton/recycled polyester. You can clearly see the pocket.
Xanthea seated pose
A seated pose of the same top.
Xanthea top in shibori indigo
In woven fabric – it’s actually a piece of old sheet I dyed with indigo at the fibre craft retreat we went to a couple of months ago.
I already knew the dimensions of the top and specifically dyed the fabric for it.
Xanthea with exterior seams
This version has exterior seams, with the edges roll-hemmed on my overlocker.
Xanthea in boiled wool
In cosy boiled wool – there are special pattern notes for sewing the top in this fabric.

This pattern sprang from an online zero waste workshop I attended which was hosted by Zero Waste Design Online. The presenter was Danielle Elsener (who you might remember developed a zero waste scrubs pattern last year). It was worth getting up at 3am for!

I find “everyday basics” such as t-shirts, jeans etc difficult to do zero waste, because there’s an expected outcome. In the workshop we walked through a design process to identify attributes of a t-shirt, which ultimately resulted in a design brief to make something that’s recognizable to anyone as a t-shirt. The process could apply to any item.

Original sample of Xanthea top
This is the original sample I ran up after the workshop. I sewed it with exposed seams, but I got sick of my children telling me I had it on inside out!
Xanthea top original sample finished off
Later, I finished off the sample with a pocket and shortened the sleeves. It’s being worn by one of the “inside out” police.

Cheers!

UPDATE: see this pattern in stripes and as a fleecy top.

18 Comments

  1. Juliana on July 14, 2021 at 2:02 am

    Awesome! Spread the word! Can‘t wait to try it out!

    • lizhaywood on July 14, 2021 at 11:50 am

      Many thanks Juliana 🙂

  2. Deepa on July 14, 2021 at 2:02 am

    Lovely design. I love the narrative too 🙂 inside out police 😀

    • lizhaywood on July 14, 2021 at 11:53 am

      Thanks Deepa – I don’t think they knew about exposed seams 🙂

    • Barkat on November 9, 2021 at 3:50 pm

      Very nice Idea. Good job work I like.

      • lizhaywood on November 11, 2021 at 2:23 pm

        Cheers!



  3. Anne D on July 14, 2021 at 7:40 am

    Love it. Off to buy the pattern !!

    • lizhaywood on July 14, 2021 at 1:02 pm

      Thanks so much Anne 🙂

  4. Tracy Henwood on July 14, 2021 at 8:18 am

    Beautiful design

    • lizhaywood on July 14, 2021 at 1:00 pm

      Thanks Tracy 🙂 I wondered if this could be a good candidate for hand woven fabric?

  5. Anthea Martin on July 14, 2021 at 10:41 am

    Great blog today, Liz.
    Well done and keep up the good work.
    Photos are great.

    • lizhaywood on July 14, 2021 at 1:01 pm

      Thanks Anthea, and thanks for all your help.

  6. Barkat on August 11, 2021 at 11:20 am

    Hi
    So beautiful design. I like nice job work. Nice photo.

    • lizhaywood on August 11, 2021 at 4:03 pm

      Thanks Barkat 🙂

  7. Susan on February 16, 2025 at 11:50 am

    I’m getting ready to make this! I’m a bit concerned that the armhole opening will not be large enough for me (36 cm), though it seems to be roomy enough for those wearing it in the pics. If I need to cut the armhole larger, how do I figure out the short sleeve measurements so they will fit the larger opening?
    Thanks for your help in advance.
    P.S I’ve made several of your garments and love your designs!

    • lizhaywood on February 16, 2025 at 7:05 pm

      Hi Susan, you could cut a bigger sleeve size. There’s 1/4″ (6mm) more armhole depth per size. Then you could make the armhole slit larger to suit. I hope this helps!

  8. Susan on February 26, 2025 at 1:57 am

    Hi Liz,
    Thank you for responding to my question. ☺️ As it turned out, I had to read the instructions more carefully, and the measurement I was concerned about was only the initial opening of the armhole area to ease the sewing of the neck binding.
    It’s all figured out, and my top looks and fits great! I’m on to making my second one. I love it!
    I so appreciate your work, talent and creativity !

    • lizhaywood on February 26, 2025 at 11:08 am

      Excellent! So glad it worked well for you.

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