New pattern: the Smith Pinafore Dress
![Smith Pinafore dress](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Resized-IMG_2533-shortlist.jpg)
Hi Everyone,
I’m excited to introduce a new pattern: the Smith Pinafore Dress.
It’s in my little Etsy shop now; please enjoy 25% off during October.
![Smith Pinafore dress sketch](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Overall-dress-sketch.jpg)
This pattern comes in 12 sizes, from an 87cm/34″ bust to a 142cm/56″ (but can actually be made bigger than that). It’s designed for traditional non-stretch (rigid) denim and can also be made in canvas or heavy cotton drill.
UPDATE: this pattern works very well using upcycled jeans – the panels are cut from the jeans legs. I made one in this blog post using absolute rubbish black jeans and it turned out great!
![Smith Pinafore in maroon plus size](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Resized-IMG_1620-shortlist-love-colour-corrected.jpg)
The fit is roomy enough to wear a jumper/sweater underneath and can be made slimmer simply by running in the side seams.
![Smith Pinafore dress mustard version](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Resized-IMG_1264-shortlist-colour-corrected-1024x1024.jpg)
The clean, utilitarian lines hide pockets in the front seams, which are also the pinafore’s closure.
![Secret pocket in the Smith Pinafore dress](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/mustard-dress-IMG_2340-shortlist.jpg)
Here it is opened out – the pocket fastens securely with a giant press stud.
![Smith Pinafore opened out pocket](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/detail-of-pocket-IMG_2052-shortlist.jpg)
In a departure from the zero waste theme of my other patterns, this one is low waste. The reason I did this was to accommodate any width of denim and be able to offer a wide range of sizes.
What makes it low waste?
The idea is that the pattern pieces join together to make rectangles. They’re cut like this:
![Smith Pinafore dress rectangular cutting](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Overall-dress-24a-cutting-identifying-pieces-resized.jpg)
And are sewn together like this:
![Smith Pinafore sewing together the pieces](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Overall-dress-24-cutting-identifying-pieces-resized.jpg)
All the pieces, even the pocket bags, form rectangles.
After cutting out, you’re left with a rectangular-sized offcut which is far easier to use for other things than lots of little odd-sized offcuts.
This is how some zero waste designers manage zero waste – they keep their offcuts in easy-to-use modular rectangles where they can be used for other sizes of the same pattern or for other garments.
The centre back and front feature a slot seam. Have you ever done one?
![Smith Pinafore dress slot seam](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/blue-dress-closeup-of-straps-IMG_2032-shortlist.jpg)
This dress is practically a tribute to topstitching!
The Smith Pinafore looks good worn with the Sawyer Hoodie, and the navy-on-navy combo pleasantly surprised me – I love this look.
![Smith Pinafore worn with Sawyer hoodie](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Overalls-dress-with-sawyer-hoodie-IMG_2458-shortlist.jpg)
I also like it with a white blouse.
![Smith Pinafore worn with white top](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/navy-dress-IMG_2422-shortlist.jpg)
Here’s me wearing the original prototype. The central red strip hides the fact that I didn’t cut the panels wide enough initially – they’re just butted together behind the strip.
![Smith Pinafore dress original prototype](https://lizhaywood.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/Smith-pinafore-prototype-IMG_2512-shortlist.jpg)
This was an interesting diversion into making modular pattern pieces and is another approach to zero waste. I plan to return to the goal of all-zero waste for future patterns.
Cheers!
Love the prototype with the red stripe and topstitching!
Thanks Kim – I like red on denim too. My 11 year old has been wearing this, after having a massive “lockdown growth spurt”!
this is brilliant Liz, I love it. It works beautifully as a garment and is the epitome of sustainability.
Thank you very much! I think it’s a bit “you”!
This looks like a really versatile pattern for all shapes and sizes. My sister is in the larger size range, so the pinafore modelled on a curvy model helps. She looks lovely and I will make one as a Christmas gift for my sister.
Thanks Dev. It’s turned out to be very versatile and I’ve been wearing the samples much more that I thought I would.
It will make a very thoughtful Christmas gift for your sister.
I’ve just purchased and downloaded this, and I’m looking forward to a nice easy thing-to-wear-over-T-shirts this summer (also, pocketses). I love rectangular construction and I wish more contemporary designers used it. A couple of questions: is there a structural need for the slot seam, and what are your thoughts on using jeans buttons to secure the pockets?
Thanks Rachel. I can attest it’s very easy to wear.
In answer to your questions…
No, there’s no structural need for a slot seam – you could sew it as a regular seam if you wanted to. It’s there for aesthetics and general sewing interest 🙂
Yes, you could use jeans buttons or any type of button to secure the pockets. You might find you don’t really need a fastening for the pockets and can just pull the pinafore on over your head.
I’ve just finished sewing this, and taken it for a test walk. I love it. It’s exactly what I need to fill a gap in my wardrobe and I will almost certainly make another one soon. The low-waste concept works really well, the finished garment is comfortable, practical and attractive, and the instructions are excellent.
I omitted the slot seams because I was in a hurry, and used jeans buttons for the pocket fastenings. If anyone else tries this, I recommend adding a bit of interfacing, or choosing your button position strategically to make sure it’s attached through the denim seam allowance as well as the pocket fabric.
I would suggest a small tweak to the instructions, which is to tuck under the tops of the pocket corners when attaching to the front panels as well as the side ones. If I were to make this again, I’d also make the pockets a bit bigger to accommodate a phone AND my hand a little more easily.
So glad you like it Rachel. Many thanks for the handy sewing tips and I’ll review the instructions.