Tutorial: how to add a hood inside a collar

Last week I finished sewing the zero waste Kiabi windbreaker, and this week I have a tutorial on how to add a fold-away hood concealed inside the collar.

This would work for any anorak/windbreaker that has a stand collar.

The hood on the black Kiabi windbreaker
The hood is sewn to the neck with the collar, and emerges from a horizontal zip in the collar.
Hood of the black Kiabi windbreaker

I’ve distilled the instructions down to one page, with notes and photos to follow:

How to add a hood inside a collar Instructions
I forgot to write, in Step 8, pleat the hood to fit on the collar’s neck. Put pleats at the centre back and sides.

Some notes…

Kiabi windbreaker collar with chalk cutting line
Cut the collar apart very accurately in Step 2; you’re going to have to match the ends across the front zip later.
Invisible zip in the collar
Unfortunately I didn’t have a zip the right colour or length at home, but I did have an invisible zip. Luckily I was going to make the collar narrower anyway, so I could spare 5mm each side to put the zip in.
I would recommend using a dress zip which is lighter in weight than a jacket zip.
Invisible zip sewn into the collar
Here’s the invisible zip sewn into the collar.
I had an idea (if I had a regular zip) to slip a folded strip of fabric above the zip so the zip is concealed when it’s zipped shut.
Trimming the Kiabi collar
I trimmed 1cm off the depth of the Kiabi collar, partly because I thought it was too high on me and mostly because my front zip was too short!
I felt like the Kiabi collar was snug on me when it was zipped up, but my children said it was fine when they tried it on. I sewed it with a 5mm centre back and front seams.
Note that the interfacing and all the stitching for the zip etc will make the collar slightly smaller. Also wearing the windbreaker with the collar folded up inside will make it smaller.
buttonhole position on the collar
I sewed the hood’s buttonholes 5cm up from the raw edge, but they’re barely peeping over the top of the collar.
A hood inside a collar with the hood pulled up



  1. Sara on August 31, 2021 at 7:56 pm

    Brilliant post! I had never realised how this was done. Thank you.

    • lizhaywood on September 1, 2021 at 2:13 pm

      Thanks Sara 🙂

  2. Barkat on August 31, 2021 at 11:38 pm

    The best sewed windbreaker. Nice pattern & good information. I like.

    • lizhaywood on September 1, 2021 at 2:12 pm

      Thanks for reading 🙂

  3. Terri Gardner on September 1, 2021 at 11:39 pm

    This was such a good post, one of those to store away for future use. I haven’t sewn a piece of outerwear in quite a while. If I do and it doesn’t have a hood, I will definitely use this method.

    • lizhaywood on September 2, 2021 at 5:06 pm

      Thanks Terri – it’s not too much work to sew compared with how useful it is on a jacket.

  4. Tanya on September 10, 2021 at 11:06 pm

    Thanks for sharing! I’ve been wondering how to construct this!!!

    • lizhaywood on September 11, 2021 at 10:09 pm

      Cheers Tanya!

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