New Pattern: Cotton Time Jacket

Hello All, I have a new zero waste pattern to introduce.

It’s a short sleeved jacket, published in the Japanese magazine Cotton Time.

Here’s a preview of this lovely magazine, and a little flip through:

This opportunity fell into my lap via Mirai Pattern, who license and translate my zero waste patterns into Japanese. Last year, Cotton Time featured a zero waste pattern by Birgitta Helmersson and it was very well received, and they wished to offer another one.

The design brief was:

  • zero waste
  • single size to fit a Japanese size M woman (but we ended up doing size L, which is conveniently the same size as me)
  • to fit on fabric 110cm wide and doesn’t require much yardage.
  • a simple on-trend piece such as a vest, tunic, or lightweight jacket. Something suitable for the transition from late summer to early fall.

I was required to provide the pattern and basic instructions, then Mirai would translate them and sew the samples for the magazine, and unseen hands at the magazine would do the diagrams (those famously easy-to-follow ones that the Japanese are so good at).

Oh, so uncomplicated to create a single sized pattern! I submitted a long-line vest and a cropped jacket, and they chose the jacket. Submitting zero waste patterns takes a little longer than regular patterns, as I cannot just do a pretty sketch – I have to create a pattern and partly sew it to see if it’s going to work okay.

This is part of my submission:

The jacket is cut from a rectangle, using the bog coat/one seam cut. If you’ve read Zero Waste Sewing, you’ll be familiar with my thoughts on the versatility of this cut.

An excerpt from Zero Waste Sewing, showing the concept.

The proportions for this jacket are a Big Deal, and I spent much time getting them right.

Worn with a Louvre Beret and a Smith pinafore. It’s a zero waste trifecta 🙂
I have a size 35″ bust, but this jacket will fit up to a 37″-38″-ish bust and still look fine.
It has cartridge pleats on the sleeve, something I’ve long-wanted to incorporate in a garment.
The pleats are stitched through a very deep hem, to give them structure.
The neckline is finished with bias binding as a facing, and the fronts are faced with grosgrain ribbon.
My sample has a ridiculously deep hem, as I never got around to cutting off the excess length.

Cotton Time is available on Amazon.jp, and in Australia at the Kinokuniya bookshop in Sydney (an awesome bookshop).

I can see a lot of ways to wear this jacket. Come back next week for a styling post!

17 Comments

  1. Sue Stoney on August 19, 2025 at 8:13 pm

    I was all prepared to immediately buy this pattern but will see if I can buy the magazine instead. It looks fabulous and just what I need/want. Congratulations on getting a pattern into the magazine, it’s wonderful news.

    • lizhaywood on August 20, 2025 at 9:53 am

      It’s a delightful looking magazine, Sue. I’ve never seen a physical copy but one is arriving hopefully this week.

  2. Michelle Cahill on August 19, 2025 at 11:48 pm

    I love the sleeve detail! Do I need another bog? Hmmmmm:)

    • lizhaywood on August 20, 2025 at 9:54 am

      Says the queen of the bog coat! 🙂 🙂 🙂

  3. Susan on August 20, 2025 at 3:43 am

    Very cute!!

    • lizhaywood on August 20, 2025 at 10:01 am

      Thank you Susan!

  4. Rachel on August 20, 2025 at 6:49 am

    This is a lovely fresh take on the standard bog jacket. I especially like the sleeve pleats. Will there be any pointers for making a larger size?

    • lizhaywood on August 20, 2025 at 10:01 am

      Thanks Rachel. This is only a single size pattern unfortunately, designed to fit the magazine’s size and fabric width specifications, with no larger/smaller size guidelines. Sorry.

      • Rachel on August 21, 2025 at 8:30 pm

        Oh well. I know someone it will fit, even if that someone isn’t me!



  5. Wendy Hendy on August 21, 2025 at 1:45 am

    Denim and orange (not red?) I almost didn’t recognise you!
    Obviously I am thrilled that this fits you as that means it will work for me too. I need next week’s post though (I love your styling posts) as my ability to layer is limited to putting bigger/longer things on top.

    • lizhaywood on August 21, 2025 at 8:50 am

      I know – what’s wrong with me??!!
      Next week’s styling post is nearly ready and I’ve found some good ways to work it into outfits. Still trying to convince the younger Haywoods to do a “guest outfit” in case mine are too Mumsy.

  6. Aliénor on August 23, 2025 at 5:24 am

    Some friends of friends of mine ordered it for me in Japan and it will come to Berlin in November. With a bust size of 37″ I hope it will fit me. Very nice work bravo!!!

    • lizhaywood on August 26, 2025 at 9:32 am

      What thoughtful friends! I hope it goes well for you.

  7. KittyAnn on August 25, 2025 at 11:45 pm

    I love your jacket very much! How fab to have it in a Japanese publication – I bet it will be a hit with many! I’ve made a couple coats, but longer, in this style in days gone by, my daughter took off with one when she went to university over 12 years ago and her roommates were all wanting to know where she bought it! I’m going to have to try your pattern, I have some yardage that is 60 inches wide that would work.

    • lizhaywood on August 26, 2025 at 9:49 am

      Hi Kitty Ann, I’ve unspammed you! Thanks for letting me know. Thank you for your lovely comment.

  8. Kaz Madigan on September 6, 2025 at 10:35 am

    Congratulations Liz. Wonderful work.

    • lizhaywood on September 6, 2025 at 12:11 pm

      Thanks Kaz! Think this could be a good one for handwovens.

Leave a Comment