New Book: Sewing Without Scraps
A new zero waste pattern book has just been unleashed on the world! And I have the honour of being one of the authors.
Sewing Without Scraps has new zero waste patterns by Birgitta Helmersson, Danielle Elsener of DECODE and me. The fourth author is Sae Hagino of Mirai Pattern in Japan. The book is in Japanese.
Here’s a flip-through:
The patterns in the book are arranged as a little capsule collection by each of us. Birgitta, Danielle and I each made 3-4 patterns with variations, giving enough styles in the book to create a zero waste wardrobe.
How did this amazing opportunity fall into my lap? You may know that Mirai Pattern licenses Birgitta’s and my patterns to translate into Japanese. Sae has been doing this for about two years, and at the same time promoting zero waste patterns in Japan (for example this jacket and coatigan in Cotton Time magazine). She got a book deal, and invited Birgitta, me and Danielle to create patterns for it.
The design guidelines were to create “timeless, everyday pieces that people will want to wear for years to come, made with intention and thoughtfulness. They should be suitable for year-round wear, and not too difficult to sew.” Patterns had to primarily use 110cm or 145cm wide fabrics. The intended audience is Japanese women in their 40s-50s with relatively conservative taste, in sizes to fit their size chart.
We spent some time coming up with ideas, and then had a zoom talk with the lady from the publisher Nihon Vogue, with Sae translating. She was quite excited about this book. We talked about the type of clothes that the book’s intended audience might want to make and wear for her lifestyle.
Then I spent three months last year making the patterns and sewing samples. I made little videos of myself, in our kitchen, show-and-telling what I was working on, and the others did the same. We handed in all the patterns and instructions by August. Birgitta, Danielle and I didn’t do much after this, but Sae translated them, found suitable fabrics that co-ordinated, had samples sewn and did the instruction’s diagrams according to the sketches we sent. Unseen hands at the publisher did photography and formatted the book, then there was a round of checking.
It has really been such a pleasure to work with a group of people I admire. I miss working in a team, and this has reminded me how nice it is.
That this book is in Japanese is very exciting. Although traditional Japanese clothes are zero waste, modern zero waste patternmaking has not made big inroads into Japan, mostly (I think) due to resources being in other languages.
I thought you might like to see some of my samples.
Coat
This is my favourite pattern in the book. It has a hood, deep pockets and bound edges. It’s a single size, with options for adjusting the sleeve length. I’ve tried this coat on friends with a 42″/106cm bust and it still fits. It takes a mere 1.32m!
Nice quilted fabrics are hard to come by in Australia (maybe because we don’t need ’em so often!) and this is an actual quilt. It’s a cotton Sheridan Comforter from the op shop, dyed pale grey. I threw in some plain white cotton at the same time to make perfectly matching binding.
This coat has another version, which is reversible. Instead of binding, the edges are sewn together, and button loops are inserted into the seam. There’s a set of buttons on each side. I feel this is a really happy coat (is it the colour?) and if I were going on holidays I think it would be beaut.
Spiral dress/top + skirt
This is a bias cut, sleeveless dress, which can be made any length. It can be cut as a top, with a separate matching skirt, or the skirt can be cut as a stand-alone if you want a bias pencil skirt (sorry I didn’t take a photo of the skirt). This pattern is designed for fluid, drapey fabrics.
Btw, I tried making this dress with a sleeve option but it didn’t work. However, it could be worn with a top underneath.
Bias top
A top with two versions cut using the same pattern. A bias tube is created, then the pattern is laid on top and cut out. It’s designed for either stable or fluid fabrics, and looks very different in each. The sleeves can be cuffed if the fabric is stable.
This top is on the back cover of the book, sewn in a stable fabric.
For the non-Japanese reader who has some sewing experience, the book has good diagrams and can be read with a translation app on your phone (or you could take a photo of the text and “translate image”).
How to get this book: The book can be ordered from Japan Amazon here. If you’re in Australia, I have 50 copies coming and you can order direct from me and my newsletter will advise when they arrive. Birgitta in Sweden also has 50 books coming; sign up to her mailing list to find when they’re available. Danielle in the USA has books for pre-order.
Title: ハギレを出さないソーイング／Sewing without Scraps
Subtitle: ゼロウェイストの大人服／Zero-waste patterns for women’s clothing
Author: みらいパターン／Mirai Pattern
Publisher: 日本ヴォーグ社／Nihon Vogue
ISBN: 978-4-529-06548-1
Cheers!