Making the Marx-Etzel Trousers from Bog Fashion
For Christmas I received the book Bog Fashion – Re-creating Bronze and Iron Age Fashions by Nicole DeRushie, and it was such an interesting read I finished it in two sittings.
The book describes textile finds from bogs and other sources in Northern and Western Europe, and then shows how they might be re-created. Patterns and instructions are provided for 13 garments and accessories alongside their archeological evidence. The book also shows how to make pins and a bone needle, discusses fabrics, weaving, dyes, and stitching techniques.
I was keen to make something from the book, and decided to try the trousers as they had such an unusual construction. The pattern is inspired by the Marx-Etzel breeches, found in a bog in Germany in 1817. They were cut from a single rectangle and cleverly folded and sewn into garment, with the waist thought to have been gathered by a belt.
The trousers aren’t full length; they’re like breeches or 3/4 length trousers. The project in the book has a drawcord waist.
The pattern looks like a squashed hexagon with two cuts in it:
The sides fold in to create legs, and the two cuts create a gusset which is folded up:
I made a paper pattern first, then checked it against a pair of my own trousers. So glad I did – I wasn’t sure there was enough thigh width, and I ended up adding more width.
Then I cut it out of some not-too-special-but-fine-to-wear cotton fabric:
There are only two seams which are sewn as flat felled seams.
Here it is pinned together ready to try on:
I must be honest: I’m not loving them right now, but I think they have potential. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the interesting construction, and now look forward to finding an elegant solution for the waist.
Please join me next week for the finished trousers!
Meanwhile, here’s a few of the projects and photos from the book. If you’re a school teacher or home schooling, this would be a fabulous book for doing classroom projects combined with history lessons – most if not all of the projects are simple enough for young people to make.
See more on the author’s Instagram page.
UPDATE: the finished trousers are here.
Interesting book, thanks for sharing! As for the trousers… well… let say I’m curious how you’re going to get something out of it 😀
And glad to know I’m not the only one pining stuff on my underpants!
More seriously, one day I’ll make myself leather shoes like on the picture you shared at the end. I’m just waiting to live somewhere with less glass on the sidewalks. Yes, I know, I should feel lucky not having snakes in my garden!
Worst case scenario I’ll wear them as pajama bottoms, but I think they might work as summer trousers for around the house.
INCREDIBLE, thank you for sharing! i hadn’t heard of this book and wouldn’t have imagined it existed but i had JUST been wondering how i would make a needle if i didn’t have access to one. and what a cool route to head on in your zero waste clothesmaking learning, it makes so much sense since clothes were zero waste until they weren’t… thanks for showing the results so far that you’re not completely delighted with yet, i’m looking forward to seeing what you do with them. all the best!
You would love this book – it’s a fabulously interesting read and lots of slow, quiet stitching projects.
Lucky you for receiving this book! I have been wanting to buy it ever since I learned about it, but it doesn’t seem to be available in the US.
Do you know which website your copy came from?
Yes. Confession: I ordered the book, and gave it to Mr H to give it to me at Christmas (and everyone was happy). I ordered it from Grimfrost, and their service was really excellent.
Absolutely fascinating! I need this book in my collection.
You do! Think you would really like it.
Thanks for posting about this book! I found a US source for it but had to go on waitlist for their next incoming order as the first sold out quickly.
As to the waist of the pants, I can see making small pleats all around to bring it closer to the body.
That is great for the author that it’s so popular.
Yes, thinking about pleats for the waist, and pockets of some sort.
Very interesting, but THE SHOES! Wow! I’m trying to wrap my head around them. Do they begin with a rectangle?
No, they’re a crazy shape – tabs that look like flower petals that fold up over the foot.
Ok, so after this post I had to go and order the book! I wasn’t planning on buying another book but it just sort of happened. Luckily I live in Europe so not too expensive for postage nor too long a wait for delivery.
The pants look interesting. I wonder how they’ll look on a plus sized, older womean – ie me.
From the book photo shown the pants seem to have a draw string and gathered waist. Pleats have already been mentioned but what about a couple of darts on each side of the front? Another slightly “on trend” idea could be to pin or button at each side at the waist then fold the extra fabric towards the centre front and attaching it at the waist. I suppose it all depends on how fitted you want them.
The shoes also look fun. Will have to have a play with those as well.
If only I received a commission!
Yes, the ones in the book have a drawcord waist, but I’m considering an elastic waist after reducing the waist size a little. As you suggest, at some point there’s a departure from the original, to make them be how you want them to be. I haven’t seen anyone else try these trousers, at least not from this book (this re-enactor made a pair, and so did this guy.)