Like or loathe it
Like or loathe it: Matching checks, stripes and junctions
A sign of a well-made garment is perfectly matched seam junctions, checks and stripes. I was reminded of this on the weekend as I dug out some checked fabric to make shirts. Cutting the checks is only half the job; they need to be matched when they’re sewn as well. …
Read MoreLike or Loathe it: stitching in the ditch
Stitching in the ditch is a line of stitching used to hold down a seam onto the fabric behind it. The stitching is done on the right side of the garment and doesn’t show because it’s hidden in the “ditch” of the seam line. The stitching sinks into the seam and is indiscernible. You might…
Read MoreLike or Loathe it: stay stitching
This is a true confession: I never do stay stitching. Just to clarify, if you’re not familiar with the term, stay stitching is a row of machine stitches (long or regular in length) made to the edge of a garment to stop it from stretching during construction. It’s often the first step in sewing a…
Read MoreLike or loathe it: topstitching thread
Topstitching is an great way to emphasise a construction detail, hold seam allowances flat, hold interfacing in position, or to add interest to plain fabric. It also reinforces seams, and I heard that topstitched garments require less ironing! I’m a bit of a topstitching evangelist these days -I really love the look of it- but…
Read MoreLike or loathe it: tailors chalk
I would say that most home sew-ers don’t use much tailors chalk, because generally we use paper patterns that are pinned to the fabric, not cardboard patterns that need tracing around. I would also say that most home sew-ers don’t like using tailors chalk, mainly because it’s hard to get a fine line. There are…
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