When the Right Hem Stitch Matters

I hemmed a wool skirt during the week, and realised at the end I’d used the wrong handstitch. Felt like an idiot (didn’t I write a book on sewing?). Not that anyone passing in the street would notice a skirt’s hem stitch, and I’m sure the universe will keep on turning, but the wearer will know!

The fabric is wool, kind of thick but not coat weight. I overlocked the raw edge, turned it up once and stitched it with herringbone stitch, my favourite hand stitch.

But why was herringbone stitch a bad choice? Herringbone criss-crosses stitches over the raw edge, and presses the edge into the garment. No big deal if the fabric is thin, but with thicker fabrics it creates a ridge on the right side, and is made worse if you put an iron on it.

A better choice is blind hem stitch (also known as catch stitch), where the stitching sits between the layers of fabric. I had to do another hem, so I used blind hem stitch.

Can you spot the difference on the right side? It’s subtle but it’s there. The top hem is herringbone stitch and you can see the ridge. Below it is the blind hem stitch, smooth and invisible.

So while both stitches do the job, the fabric decides which looks the best.

How to sew herringbone stitch. It’s one of the few stitches worked from left to right. Take small stitches alternately in the hem and the garment, and make the stitch on the garment side really small, just one thread if you can. Herringbone stitch has a bit of stretch to it, and it’s actually quite a strong stitch. Although the threads seem to be exposed to potential abrasion I’ve never had a problem with it.

If you’re a left hander, stitch it from right to left.

To sew blind hem stitch, sew from right to left. Fold back the hem edge about 6mm (1/4″) and take alternate stitches between the hem and the garment. Make the garment stitches very small, just one thread if possible. The tension should be loose.

For left handers:

Cheers!